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Touring the Texas Coast
from the
AAA Tourbook

A Drive along the Gulf Coast

More than 300 miles long, the Texas Gulf Coast describes a narrow arc from Louisiana to Mexico. This shoreline gradually surrenders to the sea first as marsh, then as shallow bays opening onto the Gulf. Despite its length and several large bays, the Texas coast proved inhospitable to early explorers and settlers. Those who didn't perish in shipwrecks in the treacherously narrow passages to the few natural harbors, were often killed by marauding cannibals or vanquished by hurricanes.

The promise of Texas' unknown riches continued to inspire both pirates and entrepreneurs; by the late 19th century a number of ports dotted the coastline. Some of these survived and those that did not became footnotes to the development that has make this a playground for beach-hungry city dwellers.

Because of the nature of the coast of Texas, its major highway, actually parts of I-10, US 59 and US 77, is an inland route. For a closer look at Texas' early history and the popular resorts along the coast, State Roads 35 and 87 are better tour routes.

The countryside around the cities of Beaumont, Port Arthur and Orange little resembles the bayous, salt marshes and woodlands of pine, magnolia and oaks draped with Spanish moss that once dominated this area. The discovery of oil at the turn of the 20th century transformed this agricultural region of rice plantations and lumber mills into industrial boomtowns of refineries and chemical plants. Vestiges of the area's earlier landscape linger in Sea Rim State Park, which preserves 5,000 acres of saltwater marshes and beachfront along SR 87.

There are other refuges scattered along this region of the coast. At a point roughly midway down SR 87 and a few miles inland, Anhuac National Wildlife Refuge offers sanctuary to waterfowl, as well as the endangered red wolf, once common to Louisiana and East Texas. South beyond Crystal City the beach widens and remains relatively undeveloped, except for a few houses and fishing camps.

From Port Bolivar a ferry crosses to Galveston, which was once known as the "Wall Street of the South." Galveston was Texas' wealthiest city, until the hurricane of 1900 virtually destroyed it. Although the city rebuilt, it never regained its position as a leading financial center and seaport, a role quickly filled by neighboring Houston. Today its restored historical structures and miles of beaches have transformed Galveston into a resort.

South of Galveston along SR 35 you travel through country whose rivers and creeks were once lined with cotton plantations. At the end of SR 288 and the intersection with SR 35, is Brazosport, a cluster of nine towns noted both for a large industrial complex and as a beach resort. Here Austin's colonists first entered Texas, many of them claiming the fertile lands along the Brazos River. These tracts and their wealthy cotton plantations became the envy of antebellum Texas.

So influential was this region that Texas' first capital was established at West Columbia. Little of that period remains except in such places as the Verner-Hogg Plantation State Historic Park and Brazos Bend State Park. The later contains almost 5,000 acres of woodlands and Brazos River bottomlands, which closely resemble the country fist settled by Austin's pioneers.

Beyond Bay City the level coastal prairie along SR 35 still feeds cattle as it did when such large spreads as the Pierce Ranch dominated the area. East of this route, the little community of Matagorda was the first official port of entry for the Austin colony, but has since faded to a quiet beach resort.

Across the bay only historical markers remain of Indianola, a port of immigration and supply depot for the Army until a hurricane in 1886 leveled the community. Misfortune also dogged the French explorer La Salle, who established a settlement in this vicinity in the late 17th century. Robert La Salle died during an expedition into the interior, and the small fort he left behind was soon wiped out by Indians.

South of Port Lavaca is Aransas National Wildlife Refuge, home to the endangered whooping crane and more species of birds than any other refuge along the coast. Bird watching here and at other local refuges has made the nearby fishing village of Rockport a favorite colony for artists and tourists.

A scenic route off SR 35 crosses to Port Aransas and then follows a park road through Mustang Island State Park. After a short drive comes Corpus Christi, which is the largest city on the coast south of Houston. It is home to the Texas State Aquarium and the USS Lexington, a retired aircraft carrier. The Museum of Science and History in Corpus Christi provides a good look at the history of the South Texas area. South of town is the entrance to Padre National Seashore, which protects 65 miles of this barrier island. Padre Island, with development only on its northern and southern ends, is a favorite of tourists and spring breakers. The Mansfield Jetties to the south are the stopping point for those beach visitors in 4-wheel drive vehicles who travel Padre Island.

Traveling south on US 77 takes you away from the coast and through the rangelands of the famous King Ranch, headquartered near Kingsville. Tours of the ranch are popular. At Raymondville a turn east on SH 186 will take you back to the coast and Port Mansfield, a small fishing and retirement community, which has excellent fishing in the Laguna Madre, although access to Padre Island and the beaches on the Gulf of Mexico is only by boat. South of the Mansfield Jetties is South Padre Island which stretches almost to the Mexican border.

Go south on US 77 past Harlingen and Park Road 100 will take you to Port Isabel and South Padre Island. This is the most developed and tourist intensive area of Padre Island. Continuing south on 77 you soon reach Brownsville and the Mexican border.

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Port Mansfield Weather Forecast, TX

Touring the Texas Coast from the AAA Tourbook

Touring the Texas Coast
from the
AAA Tourbook